If you succeed in takeoff, you will want a long ride. However, it will be difficult for beginners. I hope you will read this article and be able to ride long.
There are various reasons why you cannot ride long.
1.Yow can’t choose a good wave.
①Choose a surfing point to enter that day
・ Avoid big waves as they are dangerous.
・ Avoid steep/hollow/fast waves.
・ There may be few days when there are waves for beginners.
That’s why you should choose your points.
You should anticipate on the Internet etc. and choose the best point for beginners.
If you find a point with waves for beginners, you should go far.
②Check the waves before entering the sea.
・Check for at least 15 minutes.
・Is it a good wave for beginners?
・ Where to enter, where to wait,Make a plan of where to get on the waves.
2 .The takeoff position is bad.
By the time you take off, the waves are already breaking.
The face of the waves to run has disappeared.
① Know the correct takeoff position.
That is, before the wave breaks, the top of the wave is near vertical.
② Predict the correct takeoff position and take off before the wave breaks.
3.You don’t know where to run on the waves.
In what direction do you go after taking off?
Many beginners want to run sideways. But is it really right to run sideways?
See the picture of the waves below.
You have successfully taken off on the right break. You try to go sideways.
You are about to go to the Target point.
Do you think you can reach the Target point on this red arrow course?
You run sideways.But the waves are moving towards the shore.
You ran sideways.
However, the target point was at the top of the wave as the wave was moving to the shore.
It would be nice if you could make a turn at the top of the wave.
But for beginners, this is where the riding ends.
You can’t ride long.
So what should you do?
You should have set the target point more bottom, anticipating the waves moving to the shore.
If you set the target point on the shore side much more than you think,
you will be able to ride longer.
Many beginners try to go sideways. But that’s a mistake.
Go to the shore at an oblique angle.
WSL Surf Ranch /Notice the direction of the nose of the surfboard
This video will tell you in which direction you should move your surfboard.
4.You can’t generate speed , you can’t keep it.
Speed is very important in surfing. If you can generate speed , the surfboard will lift off the surface,
support your weight and allow you to ride longer.
When the surfboard stalls, you fall into the water.
Also, if you can generate speed , the surfboard will be stable and easy to control.
What can you generate speed? There are various techniques.
This technique will be released separately.
5.Wrong choice of surfboard