Do you understand the structure of waves correctly?
Surfing is an activity that controls the surfboard according to the wave conditions.
Yes, even if you practice without knowing the waves, you will not improve.
This time, I will tell you about knowing the waves and how to use them.
I’m sure your surfing will be better.
- 1. Two forces of waves
- 2. Physical force of waves
- 3. How surfers use these forces and energies
- 4. Summary
Two forces of waves
Force to lift
The force to move from the bottom to the top of the wave.
Force to move forward
It is the force that moves from offshore to shore.
Force to move forward → Force to drop down
The force that moves forward will be the force that falls down after breaking
Physical force of waves
Energy that falls from a high place using gravity.
Surfers can use a lot of energy if they are in the high position of the waves.
Buoyancy of surfboard
When the surfer loads the surfboard, it creates the force to lift the surfboard.
How surfers use these forces and energies
It is important to make effective use of these forces and energies.
What surfers should do.
Control by loading and submerging the appropriate part of the surfboard.
I will show you how to use them according to surfing techniques.
In order to use potential energy effectively, it is good to take off from
the high position (peak) of the wave.
Surfers can accelerate.
You may feel scared of taking off from the peak.
Takeoff from a high position is scary.
But you can accelerate great.
Speed is important for surfing.
Try to take off from the peak as much as possible.
Down the line
The flow of water is from bottom to top.
The surfboard falls against the flow.
When the tail is sunk, it slows down due to the flow of water from bottom to top.
To accelerate, load with the front foot.
The angle between the surfboard and the water surface matches.
The resistance of water is reduced and it can fall.
If you use only the rail, it will fall off quickly.
The volume of the rail is smaller than the volume of the bottom surface of the surfboard.
You can reduce the resistance of water flow by using only rails.
The feeling of dropping the surfboard against the flow from bottom to top feels good
Ups and downs
At first, use potential energy. Get down to the middle of the waves.
Then use the lifting force to go up.
Sink the rail on the offshore side.
The rail can catch the lifting foace and go up the waves.
At this time, also use the buoyancy of the surfboard.
When the rail is submerged in water, it floats with buoyancy.
Use it as a force to advance that power.
On the bottom side of the wave, sink the rail on the offshore side.
On the top side of the wave, sink the rails on the shore side.
Some beginner surfers don’t know to sink shore rails at the top of the waves.
Some people think it’s out of balance.
However, if you are accelerating, you can use centrifugal force.
So you won’t lose your balance.
Use both rails with good rhythm.
The surfboard accelerates steadily.
Use potential energy first.
Accelerate with the force of gravity falling from top to bottom.
When you reach the bottom of the wave, start the bottom turn.
Use the Lifting Force to reach the top of the wave.
By sinking the rail, the rail receives a lifting force and helps to reach the top of the wave.
The angle of the rail is important.
The steeper the rail is, the stronger the refiting force will be.
If you don’t sink the rails, your surfboard will flatten and you won’t be able
to receive the lifting force.
Also, if you sink the rail deeply, you can get a strong repulsive force.
You can accelerate the surfboard efficiently.
If you’re accelerating enough from top to bottom, you can sink the surfboard deeper.
When you reach the bottom at high speed, take that speed and your weight with a rail.
Loosen the rail angle when going to the top.
The accumulated force is released and it becomes the force to accelerate the surfboard.
After the bottom turn, when you reach the top, start the top turn.
Sink the rails on the shore side in the water. The surfboard turns towards the bottom.
If you can accelerate from the bottom turn, you can use centrifugal force,
so even if you sink the rail on the shore side, it will not fall.
The steeper the waves, the easier it is to make a top turn.
You can also use the repulsive force of the surfboard to accelerate by sinking the shore rail.
Sinking the rail and making a turn is the same for both bottom and top turns.
Front side wave case
At the top of the wave, you will succeed if you have the image of making a backside bottom turn.
Backside wave case
At the top of the wave, you will succeed if you have the image of making a bottom turn
on the front side
The cutback will be successful if you can make the bottom and top turns described above.
Make the following four types of turns
Front side bottom turn
Front side top turn
Backside bottom turn
Backside top turn
Use the force and potential energy of the waves and the repulsive force of the surfboard to make bottom and top turns.
Off the lip
The wave lip has a strong force to fall from top to bottom.
When you hit the bottom surface of the surfboard against the wave lip,
the surfboard will rotate with a strong force.
Then accelerate to the bottom.
It’s the most exciting because you can feel the power of the waves strongly.
How was this article?
Surfing is an activity that goes along with the waves.
No matter how much you practice without understanding the waves, you will not improve.
Also, be aware of using potential energy and surfboard buoyancy.
Then you will know how to control your surfboard.
I hope this article will be useful to you.
Thank you for reading.