I always fall off the surfboard at takeoff. I fall no matter how much I use my leg muscles. Are good surfers training their leg muscles?
I think good surfers have strong ankle, calf, and thigh muscles. That’s why I don’t think it will fall off the surfboard.
You are misunderstanding. It is important for surfers to train their leg muscles. However, it is a mistake to use your leg strength to keep it from falling off the surfboard.
How do good surfers keep them from falling off the surfboard?
A good surfer will load the surfboard well. With the weight of the surfer, push the surfboard into the water from above. This way, surfers won’t fall off the surfboard.
This time, I will talk about the load on the surfboard.
Do not use the muscles of your legs
When I’m about to fall off the surfboard, my legs get stronger. I want to stay on the surfboard with the power of my feet. But I will fall.
In that situation, don’t put too much effort on your legs. Applying extra force to the surfboard can cause the surfboard to become unstable.
It was counterproductive.
You don’t have to put pressure on your ankles, calves, or thigh muscles.
Use your knees like a car suspension
So what should I do?
Instead of putting pressure on your legs, relax. Move your knees gently. Imagine a car suspension. The suspension does not transmit force to the tires. The suspension is for absorbing shock. The car can run stably even on uneven ground because of the suspension.
The suspension for surfers is the knee. Bend your knees to stabilize your body even if your surfboard becomes unstable.
So that’s it. I understand that. Instead of using my leg muscles, I use my knees like a car suspension.