Surfing is very difficult. Isn’t it one of the most difficult of the many sports?
Many people give up surfing because they can’t take off.
Even after taking off, it takes years to learn the technique.
Why is surfing so difficult? In this article, I’ll explain why.
Compare with snowboard to make the explanation easier to understand.
Waves are the reason why surfing is difficult.
Waves are created by nature. It has various shapes.
Suppose you were surfing outside.
Every time there is a different shape of wave.
So you can’t practice iteratively in the same situation.
If you succeeded in taking off in the previous wave.
But in the next wave, doing the same thing doesn’t mean the takeoff will be successful.
Suppose you ride inside in the previous wave.
You may regret that you should have ripped in the last wave.
But the same wave isn’t coming anymore. You can’t start over in the same situation.
Some people say that surfing and snowboarding are similar.
Both slide down the slope. Both ride sideways on the board.
This time, I’m comparing surfing and snowboarding.
If you practice snowboarding for a couple of days, many people will be able to ride it.
However, surfing will never be possible in a day.
When comparing surfing and snowboarding, snowboarding is easier to “practice” than surfing.
Because with snowboarding, you can practice iteratively in the same situation.
Snow slopes do not change shape immediately.
You can practice as many times as you like on the same slopes and with the same snow quality.
That’s why snowboarding is easier than surfing when it comes to practicing.
Having a lot of experience is important for surfing practice.
Practicing surfing is difficult. However, experience will accumulate.
If you have accumulated past experience and the next wave is similar to the past wave,
you may be able to ride well.
With a lot of experience, you will be able to repeat your past successes.
You can’t get better in a short amount of time.
However, it will improve little by little. Yes, little by little.
So let’s experience various wave.
The quality of the waves also depends on the point.
When I started surfing, I went to various points.
With a lot of experience, my surfing has improved.
You can’t do it well at first.
However, if you have a lot of experience, you will definitely get better.
If you want to get better at surfing, experience a lot.
Tnak you for your reading.