Waves and surfing spots suitable for beginner practice /wave size/wavelength

Waves and surfing spots suitable for beginner practice /wave size/wavelength
Oliver
Oliver

Wavalien, help me!

What’s up?

Wavalien
Wavalien
Oliver
Oliver

Yesterday, I entered surfing spot A to practice, but I was scared because the waves were strong.
What is the right place for beginners to practice surfing?

Yesterday, at Surf Spot B, the waves were a little smaller, which was good for beginners to practice.

Wavalien
Wavalien
Oliver
Oliver

really? I should have gone to surfing spot B.

Waves are the reason why surfing is difficult. Waves change depending on the location, day and time of day. Beginners should practice in a place that suits their level.

Wavalien
Wavalien
Oliver
Oliver

How do I find a suitable surfing spot for beginners?

This time, I will tell you how to find a suitable wave for beginner practice.

Wavalien
Wavalien
Waves suitable for beginners 

Beach break  (if there is a beach break)
・ Small waves
・ Waves with short wavelengths (weak waves)
・ There is no current or it is weak
・No wind or weak

   Note: Stay away from advanced points

Beach break  (if there is a beach break)

Beach breaks have a sandy bottom. The waves break when the swells coming from offshore hit shallow areas. Beach breaks change the terrain as the sand on the seabed moves. Therefore, the shallow place (sand bar) where the wave breaks moves. Before entering the ocean, check where the waves are breaking. Compared to reefs with a hard seabed, the sandbars are softer, so the breaks in the waves are also softer. (Of course, depending on the conditions of the day, it is not always a soft break.) Since the seabed is sand, the probability of injury is low. Therefore, it is good for beginners’ practice.

Reef break
Reef breaks have corals and rocks on the seabed. Since the terrain does not change, the waves break at about the same place. Since the seabed is hard, it firmly receives the force of the swell and breaks. Compared to beach breaks, the waves are stronger. (Of course, depending on the conditions of the day, the waves may not always be strong.) When you wipe out, you may get injured by coral or rocks. Not suitable for beginners. However, depending on the country or region, there may only be reef break surfing spots.

River mouse
It is a surfing spot at the mouth of the river. Sediment flowing from upstream can accumulate and form a delta. The topography of the seabed is constantly changing. It is not always a delta, but its terrain is often kept to some extent. Diligent checks are required.
The swell hits the delta, creating a powerful and beautiful wave. The river mouse is dangerous because it has a strong current. Beginners should stay away.

Small waves

Surfing is very dangerous. Practice with small waves at first. The power of the waves is stronger than the beginners can imagine. Even small waves can drown when you panic. Practice with small waves at first, then step up little by little as you improve. Small waves often have a weak current and are often safer than large waves. (Depending on the condition of the day, the current is not always weak because it is a small wave. Please be careful.)
Takeoff practice is very difficult on big waves. Smaller waves are better for takeoff practice.

Oliver
Oliver

I always practice with small waves. One day I entered a wave that was a little bigger than usual. However, the power of the waves was strong and I was very scared. Why does the power of the waves change so much even if the height of the waves is slightly different?

Even if the wave height is just a little high, the force will change drastically.
The reason is explained in the figure below.

Wavalien
Wavalien

To make the difference easier to understand, compare the 1feet and 2feet waves. The shape of the wave is simply represented by a triangle.
Is there anything you notice?

Wavalien
Wavalien
surfing-the-difference-between-small-and-big-waves
Oliver
Oliver

The higher the waves, the bigger the lower part of the waves.

That’s right.
To make it a little easier to understand, it is displayed as a square block.

Wavalien
Wavalien
surfing-the-difference-between-small-and-big-waves-amount-of-water
Oliver
Oliver

I was surprised.
If the height of the wave is doubled, the area will be tripled.

This figure is a simplified diagram. It is not an exact wave drawing. Even so, you understand that if the wave height doubles, the amount of water will not double, but will increase.

Wavalien
Wavalien

The figure is a plan view. However, the actual waves are three-dimensional. Not only vertical and horizontal, but also depth. Therefore, even if the wave height is slightly different, there is a big difference in the power of the wave.

Wavalien
Wavalien
Oliver
Oliver

Thank you. I could see the difference in wave height.

Waves with short wavelengths (weak waves)

The wavelength is the length of the top of the swell and the top of the next swell. The longer the wavelength, the stronger the wave.
For example, a wave with the same height of 1 feet will be stronger with a wave with a longer wavelength. Waves with short wavelengths are good for beginner practice. Waves with short wavelengths have weak power, so you can practice takeoff relatively safely.

Oliver
Oliver

It’s a little difficult to understand.

I will explain with a drawing.
The waves are moving from left to right. Wavelength is the length of A and B below.

Wavalien
Wavalien
 surfing-the-difference-between-short-wavelength-and-long-wavelength

Oliver
Oliver

Do you measure the length between waves? We can’t measure with majors, right?

Yes, that’s why it’s measured in time. Time required for the top of wave A to reach B. This is called the wave period. The unit is seconds.

Wavalien
Wavalien

Once you understand the wavelength, you will be able to select the wave that suits you. Below is the same 1feet wave, but with a different wavelength. The upper figure has a short wavelength of 5 seconds, and the lower figure has a long wavelength of 10 seconds.

Wavalien
Wavalien
surfing-the-difference-between-short-wavelength-and-long-wavelength-at-the-same-wave
Oliver
Oliver

I was very surprised. The height of the waves is the same 1 feet, but the size of the waves is different.

That’s right.
To make it a little easier to understand, it is displayed as a square block.

Wavalien
Wavalien
surfing-the-difference-between-short-wavelength-and-long-wavelength-at-the-same-wave-height
Oliver
Oliver

I found that the difference in wavelength affects the force of the waves. I’m a beginner, so I’ll avoid long wavelength days.

You will be able to make such a judgment. As you improve, you’ll love the longer wavelengths.

Wavalien
Wavalien

In my case, I check the wavelength of the day on the net in advance and select the surfboard to bring.

Wavalien
Wavalien
Short WavelengthsLong Wavelengths
Big
waves
Big waves are dangerous, but their power is weak compared to the height of the waves. Good for surfers who want to challenge big waves.The waves are big and the power is strong. Very dangerous. For experts.
Medium wavesThe force is relatively weak in the middle waves.
A wave suitable for surfers who can take off with a small wave to step up.
There is power for the height of the middle wave.
Scary waves for beginners.
Intermediates may also feel the thrill. 
Small wavesIt’s a small wave, and its power is weak.
Great for beginners to practice for the first time.
Powerful for small waves. Ideal for beginner practice.

There is no current or it is weak

Current is very dangerous for beginners. There is no end to the cases of being swept away by the current and dying. Please be careful enough. In some cases, the current of the surfing spot has a certain direction. Find out in advance where the dangerous current is. Also, the current may change depending on the direction of the wind and the ebb and flow of the tide. Once in the sea, find a landmark on land. The landmarks are trees, mountain shapes, houses, etc. If you remember your position, you will be able to notice that it is flowing in the current.

No wind or weak

The wind affects the shape of the waves. Choosing a day or time when the wind is weak makes it easier to practice your takeoff because the shape of the waves is clean. Also, if you can take off, you may be able to ride long.

Surf forecast is a great site for getting surf wave information

Oliver
Oliver

It turns out that the wavelength is very important, not just the height of the waves.
How can I know the wavelength?

I will introduce it because there is a very good site. It is Surf-forecast. You can see the state of waves around the world. Wavelengths are also posted. If you look at this site, you can find waves for beginners.
Click the URL below.

Wavalien
Wavalien

You can get the following information:
Rating (10 max)
Wave Height (m) Wave direction
Wave Period(s) →Wavelengths
Wind (km / h)
Wind State
High Tide / height (m)
Low Tide / height (m)
weather
temperature
The link is
I have set the wave information for the surfing venue of the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, Tsurigasaki Surfing Beach (nickname Shida-Sita).

Choose a surfing spot in your country.
It’s a very convenient site. I’m sure it will be useful to you.

Wavalien
Wavalien

Currently being created

Example of wave selection method

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