Surfboards do not have handles.
The surfer controls by loading the surfboard and sinking the surfboard.
The important thing is which part of the surfboard to sink.
So what part of the surfboard should surfers sink?
This time, I will talk about that.
Load on surfboard with front foot
Take a closer look at the shape of the surfboard.
The part where the front foot is placed is the thickest in the middle of the surfboard.
The rail is also thick. What happens if you load this part?
The entire surfboard sinks. You can sink the rail from the middle to the tail into the waves.
When many parts of the surfboard rail sink into the waves, the surfboard lifts with great force.
You can use this repulsive force to accelerate.
Yes, if you load with the front foot, you can get acceleration.
Especially in the first half of the bottom turn, if you can sink the entire surfboard,
you can get a lot of acceleration. (In the latter half of the bottom turn, load with the back foot.)
However, if you sink a lot of the rails, the surfboard will be fixed in the waves and
the maneuverability will decrease.
Load the surfboard with back foot
If you load with the back foot, the tail of the surfboard will sink.
Since only the tail part sinks, the lifting force is weakened.
Therefore, the acceleration power becomes weak.
In addition, the sunken tail part acts as a brake, and the surfboard slows down.
When you sink the tail part, the front part of the surfboard moves away from the waves.
Only the tail is in contact with the waves, which makes it easier for you to reorient your surfboard.
About the traction pad that is important when firmly loading the surfboard
My failure story
A long time ago,when I started surfing, there wasn’t much information about surfing.
I made a big mistake.
I thought it would be good to load with the front foot and sink many parts of the rail.
However, it is difficult to operate the surfboard with this method.
I was not good at changing directions.
I had a lot of trouble. It took me a long time to learn off-the-lip and cutback.
That’s not surprising. It wasn’t loaded with back foot.
Later, I learned the importance of loading with a back foot.
And my surfing has become very good.
When I started surfing, I wanted to know the importance of loading with a back foot.
Thank you for reading.