How do you choose a surfboard? Do you know what surfboard suits you?
This time, I will talk about that.
I will write about my failure as a beginner in the past.
First, I would like to talk about my failure to choose a surfboard.
It was about 25 years ago.
I was young, not a surfer, but a wind surfer.
I went to the sea with a Mistral board and a NeilPryde sail and mast on the roof of my car.
However, there was no wind in the sea. And there were a lot of waves.
I couldn’t windsurf. At that time, there was no internet, and it was difficult to understand the conditions of waves and wind until I went to the sea.
I gave up windsurfing and called the girl I liked at the time.
I searched for a phone box and called. (I didn’t have a cell phone at the time.)
I invited her to eat. But I was turned down by her.
damn it! !!
At that time, the weather was very nice, the sea was very blue, the sky was very blue,
and I remember the scenery with many waves.
I didn’t have anything to do that day, so I decided to try surfing.
I visited a surf shop by the sea. There were new and used surfboards.
I had no knowledge of surfing. Also, I didn’t mean to start surfing seriously.
I bought a used surfboard with a cool logo like a cross.
I had no knowledge of surfboards, so I chose surfboards by appearance.
Local motion surfboard
The shaper is Pat Lawson.
The logo is super cool!
It is on-fin. At that time, there was no FCS.
I went into the sea alone with a surfboard.
I had never attended a surfing school.
All tried paddles by imitating the surrounding surfers. And I tried to take off.
Of course, I couldn’t get on. I found it difficult to surf.
Then I used this surfboard for about 10 days, but I couldn’t take off.
At that time, there was little information about surfing.
Yes, I didn’t realize I made the wrong choice of surfboard.
Where was the problem?
Pat Lawson is a great shaper.
There is no problem with the design of the surfboard.
So what was wrong?
This surfboard wasn’t for beginners.
The length of the surfboard is 6’2. Width and thickness are not listed.
The width is probably narrower than 18 inches.
Buoyancy is probably around 25L.
(At that time, the buoyancy of the surfboard was unknown.)
At that time, my weight was about 165 pounds (about 75 kg) .
The buoyancy of the surfboard was too low.
Lockers are stronger. Paddles and takeoffs are difficult.
My failure was to choose a surfboard that was difficult for beginners.
＊A very good surfboard for intermediate and advanced players.
After that, I bought a new surfboard.
It was a fan board with enough buoyancy.
Width: 18 3/4
Thickness: 2 1/2
I learned paddles and takeoffs with this surfboard.
Long surfboards have fast paddles.
The buoyancy is great, so paddles are easy.
The surfboard is long and wide.
Therefore, it was easy to receive the power of the waves.
So it was easy for me to take off.
Only duck dive has become difficult.
However, since I was a beginner, I couldn’t challenge the big waves, so this surfboard was the correct answer.
How was my failure?
Choosing a beginner’s surfboard is very important.
Choose a surfboard for beginners and you’ll improve in a short amount of time.
You shouldn’t choose a surfboard like I do because the logo is so cool.
Thank you for reading.